There are many, many ways to travel that don't involve hopping on a plane, train, boat or car.  I am a big fan of taking a 'vacation' in my home town. Finding hidden neighborhoods, visiting small local shops that I take for granted, or dining in restaurants I never really knew were there.  Travel shouldn't require you to pack bags and take time off from work.

This week, I did my favorite kind of local 'traveling' - something I like to call Tasting Travel.  Visiting small ethnic restaurants that serve 'exotic' food from around the world, allows you, even if for just one meal, to travel the world by taste.  Who would have thought that my town would offer such a rich variety of international dining options: Thai, Polish, Nepalese, Japanese, Czech, Mexican, German, Tibetan, Italian, Vietnamese, Lebanese, Korean and so much more.  A visit to adjacent towns expands this list to United Nations proportions.

The Travel Gal and I do have one favorite international cuisine, to which we return at least once per month: Ethiopian.  We are very fortunate to have ten or so Ethiopian restaurants within a 30 minute drive, and with our good friends, we have visted them all at least once (and returned to some several times), and have recently started to grade them and compile our favorites.  It has even got to the point that we now buy raw Ethiopian coffee, and roast it ourselves at home.

Visiting an Ethiopian Restaurant is almost a religious experience for us.  Large communal platters that contain small, neaty arranged piles of richly spiced lentils and a full array of vegetables (when dining Ethiopian, we always go veg!).  Baskets of injera - the round, somewhat sour, hoppy, spongy bread.  A crowd of local Ethiopians dining nearby or sitting at the bar, wondering why we are so excited.

When eating Ethiopian food, silverware is untensa-non-grata.  Grab a small piece of injera and use it to pick up your food.  Tradition holds that you only use your right hand to eat.  Our favorite dish has to be Mesir Wat, which is red lentils cooked with the very traditional Berbere spice mixture.  We have lovingly come to refer to it as 'red shit', as in "That red shit rocks!".  Green lentils, garbanzo beans, collard greens, cabbage and potatoes, and slices of jalapeno all sit in small piles on the platter, atop one piece of injera.  While we so appreciate the communal nature of this type of dining, we do often become very petty and provincial, wanting to protect our little piles of food from each other.  And, after finishing our own small piles of spicy goodness, we are left with the injera at the bottom of the platter, which has almost lovingly absorbed all of the wonderful flavours of the rich stews onto which they were placed.  After dinner, an Ethiopian coffee ceremony that brings us both a taste of their culture, and a taste of the finest coffee we have ever enjoyed.

Last night, we arranged to take our friends to an Ethiopian cooking class at a locally owned cafe.  There, we learned the secrets behind some of those dishes that bring us so much joy.  Going in, we had a vision of complex recipes, with loads of exotic ingredients, requiring a lot of skill, technique, and patience.  Sitting at the communal table, enjoying a glass of wine, we were handed our aprons and our menus/recipes.  Aha!  Menu items that we were hoping to find.  But what is this?  I know these ingredients!  And, these instructions are, dare I say, easy!

Less than ninety minutes after cutting into my first onion, I sat down to an Ethiopian feast, prepared from scratch.  And, had we not spent so much time talking and debating our favorite dishes and local restaurants, it would have been ready much sooner.  For a few hours, on a Tuesday afternoon, we were transported to a different world, one with exotic spices, ancient flavours, and rich cooking traditions.  While learning these recipes may have taken a small bit of the mystique out of them, we know that when we make these dishes in the future, we will do so with the care and love they deserve.


(This is what we made in class)                (This is from one of our favorite restaurants)

While Ethiopia remains near the top of our "Next to be Visited" list, we can take solace that, for at least a couple of hours, we can visit one of our nearby favorite restaurants and immerse ourselves in the sounds, smells, tastes, and 'feel' of Ethiopia.  The culture and history of a place and its people can so often be found in its food.  For food tells stories.  And, this food and these stories truly do take us away.

"So, just what do you want to see while you're in America?"  Dangerous question to ask my Kiwi friend, for minutes later, we had last-minute flights and hotel rooms reserved in Vegas.  Ugh.

If I have never mentioned it before, let me share this very important advice:  Never, and I mean never, try to keep up drinking with a Kiwi or an Aussie.  You will lose. 

We set our plans and agreed to meet at our hotel - New York New York.  My flight arrived at 10:30p in Vegas (which is late everywhere else in the world except here), and our plan was to hook up at the piano bar at the casino's "Times Square".  Quick taxi to the hotel, an even quicker check-in process, and a run to drop off bags to my room.  Having arrived several hours earlier, Kiwi was quite a few drinks ahead of me, which made me feel confident that his head-start would make things easier.  It didn't.

Late night dinner was a slice of New York style pizza with, you guessed it, loads of beer.  Free entry tickets to the club Rok - a couple drinks.  Free entry to Coyote Ugly - a few drinks.  Paid entry to Studio 54 - a few more drinks.  The Bar at Times Square - yup, more  drinks.  Foggy memories of meeting nice folks from Canada and Australia.  Good stories.  Good laughs.  FInally, Good Night. I caved at around 3:00a, and plans were laid to meet for breakfast at 9:30a.

I had just enough sense to set my alarm for 9:00a before melting into bed. 
Loud alarm.  Big headache.  Big mistake.

I made it to the casino floor by 9:30a, but no sign of Kiwi.  Twenty minutes of seriously painful waiting with an unfortunate combination of raging headache, billowing cigarette smoke, and what seemed to be crazy-loud slot machines.  Giving up, I returned to bed and just waited for the inevitable phone call.  It came at 10:30a.  We met for a coffee and pastry at Il Fornaio bakery.  Come to find out Kiwi didn't make it back until 6:00a.  Had I tried to keep up with him, I may have been declared legally dead.  Coffee tasted OK, but I had to pace myself.  One small bite of scone made last night's pizza and beer want to make an emergency evacuation.  Wrapping it up, I placed it in my pocket with plans to eat it after I stopped wishing death upon myself.  Kiwi was hurting, but he ate heartily and laughed at last night's escapades.

Wanting to see a bit of neighboring Vegas, Kiwi pushed me to join him on a walk.  The beauty of casinos is that you never really know what time of day it is while inside, as there are no windows.  Just outside of the casino was brilliant blue skies, bright sunshine, and a beautiful warm day.  Made me want to vomit.

"Why is the sun so damned bright?"  Stupid sun.  Stupid beer.  Stupid Vegas.  We walked into the local CVS for emergency Advil supplies.  Kiwi nearly lost his scone walking into the store, and, rushing outside, he decided that fresh air was his best friend.  We later found a table and two chairs in front of the new City Center development, a massive set of high-rise buildings.  Fresh air.  People watching.  Nursing my now-cold coffee.  Cussing out the sun.

We returned to NY NY and made our best purchase of the day - a few Gatorades from the convenience store.  A combination of electrolytes and down-time provided the confidence we needed to consider eating.  The good news was that the Dim Sum was quite tasty.  The great news was that it stayed down.  Kiwi needed a nap, and I needed to answer loads of emails.  Lets meet up at the piano bar in a couple hours and we'll try this again.  Oh no . . .

Its amazing how much better you feel after a good, long, hot shower.  I was actually looking forward to a beer.  A few beers in, we decided we wanted to see the 'old' Vegas, and hopped in a taxi.  Our Eastern European taxi driver took a shine to Kiwi, as does seemingly everyone who meets him.  Kiwi does tend to draw a crowd.

The 'older' casinos of Vegas are fascinating.  Now, this is the place to find a deal.  MUCH less expensive drinks and restaurants, but still some nice sites.  The Fremont Street experience is great.  Old-time casinos, with bright lights and low ceilings.  Open air concerts by good cover bands.  Kiwi loved this area, and got a kick out of the whole scene.  A good dinner was followed by a few drinks, which were followed by a few drinks, and then . . . a few more drinks.  Amazing people watching. And I mean amazing! An absolute freak show.

Taxi back to NY NY and the piano bar.  Lesson learned. I can now nurse a beer and make it appear as though I'm keeping up, despite several cries from Kiwi for me to 'harden up' and have some more drinks.

A 2:00a I was done.  A quick Good Night and I was gone. 

Since I behaved, I felt much better at breakfast the next morning, and actually enjoyed eating.  Kiwi, as he tends to do, stayed out a little too late again, and didn't enjoy breakfast nearly as much as I did.  Advil. Gatorade. Taxi to the airport.  Kiwi proclaiming, "I love this city".  Let's have a beer!

About to board our early morning flight home from Las Vegas, I turned to Travel Gal and said, "With the possible exception of New Orleans, I think that the Las Vegas airport has the highest percentage of drunk fliers boarding planes." And I thought that we looked bad . . .

Forty-four hours in Vegas.  Amazing how much damage you can do to yourself in forty four hours.

Back in early December, our friends from Australia sent an email asking us to join them for part of their American holiday.  Just where? Vegas, baby!  No need to think about it - a quick YES before we even looked at our schedules.  Travel Boy would have to stay home this time, as this is NO place for a 9 year old.

As we landed in Vegas, we were welcomed to this huge, sprawling desert city with. . . with . . . wait for it . . . rain.  Lots of rain.  Rain that the streets of Vegas were never designed to handle.  Rain that brought out umbrella vendors, but also thankfully brought in most of the seedy guys handing out 'hooker' cards and peep show coupons.

Travel Gal and I checked into the MGM Grand.  Huge.  Bigger than huge. Ginormous?  Our first task was to find the correct bank of elevators for our floor.  We then had to navigate four impossibly long corridors to determine which one held our room.  Speaking of the room, it was unremarkable inside except for a nice view towards other mega-hotels on the strip - "Doesn't the skyline of New York look romantic in the fog?"

Rain-filled skies, crazy-slippery sidewalks, and flooded intersections limited our walking excursions to a handful of hotels and casinos around the intersection of Tropicana Ave. and Las Vegas Blvd.  Shops in all the hotels were getting a premium for umbrellas.  We grabbed a $5 umbrella on the elevated walkway to the NY NY Casino by a street 'entrepreneur' holding a bag full of them.  At that cost, it was disposable, but at least it kept the top third of our bodies somewhat dry.

Now, Vegas isn't for everyone.  Personally, I will admit that it's not my favorite place. I'm not really a 'Vegas Guy'. A bit too seedy, billboards too suggestive, and way too smoky - if you think less people smoke nowadays, just spend a minute in a Vegas casino. Makes you want to throw away your clothes.  It was remarkable to me that, walking down the street, arm in arm with my wife, that those nasty street vendors still tried to hand me cards for prostitutes.  The sad thing is this: there are so many people handing out these cards, that they must actually work. 

The Vegas Strip is not a place to find deals.  Lunch (regrettably in a hotel food court) was OK but not cheap.  Drinks are really expensive, unless you discover, as we did, that sitting at a penny slot machine gets you free beers!  Woohoo.  Free drinks made us feel like big rollers ("I'm betting 18 cents at a time!").

We met our Aussie friends at Happy Hour at one of the MGM restaurants for some drinks and laughs. We decided to tough out the rain and walk to Caesar's Palace for dinner.  Casino was full, shops were bustling, and restaurants had lines. Jeez, this is a Wednesday!!  Dinner under Ceasar's changing skies was unremarkable, but we had lots of laughs.  Rain forced us into a taxi back to the MGM, where our tired friends called it a night.  I was ready for an all-nighter, but even Travel Gal pooped out on me and crashed.  And I am usually the boring one . . .

My normal early morning wakeup had me searching the hotel for one of many Starbucks.  While Travel Gal slept, I meandered around the casino. Not sure if I was more shocked or disgusted to see just how many people were gambling, smoking and drinking heartily at 7:00a.  Just me and my coffee . . . made me feel a bit like a lightweight, but I was OK with that.

With 45 minutes remaining before the Breakfast Buffet was converted to a Lunch Buffet, I decided to wake Travel Gal and get her day started.  We had never indulged in a Vegas buffet, and since we had a hotel credit (bonus for booking online), we decided to blow it all on a big breakfast.  Now this buffet, ladies and gentleman, is America at its absolute best and worst.  Variety to make even the biggest glutton blush.  If you craved it, they probably had it.  Unfortunately, huge variety leads to huge excess, and I would guess that the average plate carried to a table weighed in at 5 pounds.  We did our best damage to the buffet and walked away with inevitable regrets and a vow to walk it all off.

Next to the MGM are a bunch of shops, including an M&M store and Coca Cola store.  We meandered through a tacky souvenir shop laughing at the incredible diversity of items that can be stamped with Las Vegas on it.  The far section of the store had what we would call an 'adult section' with hilariously inappropriate items that had us laughing throughout the day.  As shocked as we were of the junk that people bought, we were actually regretting not purchasing some of the funnier items we had seen!

Despite flooded intersections and very slippery sidewalks, we huddled under our rent-a-umbrella to check out some nearby hotels and casinos.  Lets not kid ourselves - these hotels are enormous, and what looks to be directly next door is actually a really long walk.  New York New York remains one of our favorite hotels, as it actually has some character.  Some of the older hotels have the tacky decorations and lights that you think of when you imagine Vegas.  After a while, all of the casinos look alike.  Same games.  Same cigarette smoke.  Same seediness.  The only good thing was our frequent stops at penny slot machines in order to get our free beers.

An Irish Bar at NY NY was the Happy Hour meeting place with our Aus friends.  A few drinks and hilarious laughs.  We walked through NY NY, then through Excalibur, and then Luxor.  Our trendy dinner at Luxor was quite good.  More drinks, more laughs.  They went to a magic show, while we explored.  We snuck onto an elevator at Luxor to see what it was like to take an angled ride along the edge of the pyramid (very strange feeling).  More penny machines = more free beer.

After their show, our friends met us at Studio 54 at the MGM.  I had been here before while at a conference, and thought this would be a good site for them.  Barely dressed dancing girls gyrating on elevated platforms. Loud music, video screens, rock-concert-quality lights, smoke and strobe lights.  Oh yeah.  Travel Gal couldn't stop watching the scantily clad dancers, and later kept asking, "Just what happened to make them end up here, doing that?".  Really expensive drinks helped our dance moves.  Fascinating people-watching.  Funny stuff. 

Rolling out of the club, we decided for one more nightcap (which turned into several more . . .).  At one of the bars, our friends informed us that sitting behind me was none other than Tom Jones. Yup.  The "Its Not Unusual" Tom Jones.  Lets just say that the billboard photos throughout the casino advertising his live show were taken some time ago.  Tom's not a young guy, however, his platinum blond table mate certainly was.  When they left, I wasn't sure if people were watching Tom, or his friend's really short skirt.  We inevitably had some inappropriate jokes at Tom's expense, including a Google voice search on my iPhone - - "How old is Tom Jones?"  (69, if anyone's interested)

At 4:00a, we began to fear our 6:00a wake-up call for our flight.  Laughs, hugs, and good-nights.  I would have powered through and just gone to the airport sleepless, but Travel Gal really wanted that two hours of sleep.  Which brings us to our realization that, even after many free beers and even more expensive drinks, big meals, way-too-little sleep, loads of laughs, and unfortunate Tom Jones songs stuck in our heads, we still looked better than most of our fellow travelers sitting at the gate, waiting to board the flight in the hopes of quickly falling asleep.

We returned home slightly tired, slightly poorer, and slightly damaged.  Vegas was kinda fun.  Not sure I want to return any time soon, but we had great laughs.  Now we just want to shower and burn all of our clothes . . .

Download | Duration: 00:08:51

Download | Duration: 00:07:45

Talofa Lava!
OK - its official. We now have a favorite place in the world.  After decades of traveling the globe, we have finally arrived to our personal little paradise.  And it is Samoa.  One week is all it took. 

This is my second visit to this unique South Pacific island nation.  Travel Gal and Travel Boy are Samoa newbies, and most certainly are now Samoa converts.

After spending a week in Fiji, we arrived to the Apia airport at the ungodly time of 4:30a.  Before we were allowed to disembark, a member of Samoa's health department, wearing mask and gloves, walked the aisle of the plane looking for potential sufferers of H1N1 flu.  I was just hoping that Travel Boy didn't sneeze, setting off a full scale health crisis.  Small island countries are susceptible to worldwide flu epidemics and do what they can to keep diseases at bay.  Unfortunately, while still in Samoa, we heard that several students from Australia had to check in at the Apia hospital with flu symptoms. Tough to control the flu with international travel being so prevalent.  After getting the all-clear, we walked down the steps of the plane and noticed several health department employees in full gowns, masks, gloves, etc., ready to analyze anyone showing symptoms of the flu.  No sneezes.  We made it through.

While in Samoa, we stayed at our favorite resort in the world - Coconuts Beach Club Resort & Spa.  When we arrived at 5:00a or so, they were all apologies about not having a room ready for us, and let us enter the Coco Suite for a quick nap.  We couldn't sleep, so we changed clothes and awaited the sun and fun.

Now, Saturdays at Coconuts is the best day to visit.  Every Saturday, Coconuts hosts Samoa Culture Day.  More on that later.

We were simply so excited to be in Samoa, at Coconuts.  Sitting outside in the beautiful sunny weather, Travel Boy and Travel Gal enjoyed what they considered to be the best pancakes ever, while I had a 'tropical' breakfast that consisted of some amazingly fresh and exotic fruit and homemade bread.  And, coffee.  Lots and lots of coffee.

Yum!!!!

After breakfast, we formally checked in at Reception, and were offered apologies as they could not put us in a Beachfront Fale (bungalow) as they were fully booked.  With many apologies, they offered us one of the Over-the-Water Fales.  Wait a minute.  You are offering to put us in an Overwater Bungalow and apologizing about it?  Well, OK.  We accept your apologies, but just this once!

The Over-the-Water Fale is truly a once in a lifetime experience.  The walkway delivers you to one of two Fales, built in traditional Samoan style.  There is a sitting area with a couch (that converted to Travel Boy's bed), a king size bed facing out to the large glass doors and amazing views, a large open bathroom with shower and soaking tub, and a large overwater deck where you can sit and relax, spotting fish in the water, and later in the day, witness an amazing Samoan tropical sunset.  We can't speak highly enough of the Overwater experience, and we can only hope that our next visit to Coconuts ends up in apologies and an overwater bungalow . . .


Our Overwater Bungalow

Now, Samoa Culture Day is, in a word, remarkable.  Albert is a large (and I mean large), lovely, caring, thoughtful Samoan man who taught us and fellow guests many things about Samoan family life, ancient Samoan cultures, food and drink, and so much more. Albert entertained us with amazing stories. We learned of the importance of the coconut to island life; the strong focus on family in Samoa; we had a kava ceremony in a traditional fale; Albert told of his 8-week ordeal in having his traditional Samoan tattoo made (lets just say it involves a sharp pig bone, ink, and loads of excruciating pain); and he and his friends made us a Samoan feast. They cooked fresh fish, coconut milk, vegetables, and even a suckling pig. All of us in attendance had to learn to weave our own plate, using palm fronds.  We were served this feast along with a Samoan napkin (a leaf!).  It was simply an amazing learning, and fun experience.  Albert and his friends did an amazing job.  And, the cost for this Samoan Culture Day?  Free.


Albert & Friends - notice his traditional tattoo

After lunch, we took a tour of the neighboring village of Maninoa.  Cute kids, traditional Samoan Fales, and quiet village life.  Dinner that night continued with the Samoan culture theme, as there was an after-dinner fire knife dance show.  And this was just our first day in Samoa. Simply amazing.

Day two started off with some more pancakes, great coffee, and a plan to simply relax and hang out.  Travel Boy discovered the thousands of hermit crabs in the wading pools by the beach, and spent hours building small crab enclosures made of sand.  Travel Gal and I relaxed around the pool and beach, with promises that we would snorkel and kayak sometime during the week. 

All suites and bungalows include a free minibar. It is a self-service mini bar.  Each room has a woven basket, and when brought to the main beach bar, gets filled every day with a carafe of wine, two local Vailima beers, two sodas, and two bottles of water.  We never finished our daily minibar rations, but most of our neighbors took it as a challenge to polish off their mini bars well before afternoon happy hour.  Speaking of happy hour, it was a great time to sit and meet people from all over the globe.  Everyone is happy and talkative when they have a nice cold coconut drink in front of them.

As a surprise, I purchased a massage for Travel Gal in the brand new Coco Spa, which is one of the nicest island resort spa facilities I have seen.  Travel Gal emerged from the Spa completely and utterly relaxed, and pretty much useless for the rest of the day!

That evening, we enjoyed yet another amazing dinner.  From what I have heard and read, Coconuts features the islands best restaurant, and we can certainly attest that we did not have one even mediocre meal.  The food was fresh, the presentation was top notch, and the 'Samoan inspired' dishes were served in traditional plates woven from palm fronds.  We always pride ourselves on remembering vacations by the meals we ate.  There will be no problem for us remembering our meals at Coconuts.

The next morning, we rented a small Suzuki jeep to explore this beautiful island.  When Travel Boy hopped in the jeep, he noticed the hand crank window handles and couldn't get over the fact that you could open the windows this way.  He asked if we could get a car with these old fashioned cranks. HA!

Our tour of the island was pretty extensive.  We visited several breathtaking waterfalls, the fascinating Robert Louis Stephenson Museum, the shops and markets in Apia, a refreshing cave pool, some deserted beaches, the breathtaking To Sua Trench, and more.

As is customary when visiting sights on private land, it is appropriate to pay a small 'fee' to the landowner.  We visited an amazing waterfall, and the owner of the land took us to the top of the waterfall for a frightening look down.  After returning to our car, he asked us for his small contribution. When offered a larger denomination of Samoan Tala, he told us in his very limited English that he had no change.  He then advised us to drive down to the nearby market and get change.  He told us to take his 12 year old daughter with us (for fear we wouldn't return with money?).  Now, just imagine, a place where you feel confident enough to send your young daughter with strangers.  She was a beautiful girl, and enthusiastically spoke with Travel Boy in the back seat during our ride. After purchasing some water for us, and candy for the kids back at her house, we returned and paid our fee.


One of MANY breathtaking waterfalls in Samoa

Our next stop was the To Sua Trench. I did not have a chance to visit this on my first trip to Samoa and was so looking forward to seeing it.  Now, this is a very difficult place to describe.  Imagine if you can, a tall cliff at the ocean's edge.  On top of this cliff, is an unassuming grassy area, with beautiful gardens.  Amonst these gardens are two enormous holes in the earth.  Looking down from the edge, you see a large hole with water at the bottom.  A short and steep path brings you to a home-made ladder, made by lashing two telephone poles together with 2x4 steps, leading to a small concrete landing.  Now, I have never been a fan of heights.  But I was made more anxious by watching Travel Boy climb down this ladder, with seemingly no fear at all.  There is simply NO WAY this ladder and access would have been allowed in our we-must-protect-us-from-ourselves America!


(not our best Parenting decision . . .)

Once down in the trench, the water was cool and refreshing. We could hear the crashing sea on the other side of the cliff, and we could feel the water rise and lower with the incoming waves. It was a very strange feeling indeed.  We swam through the cave until we came to the other giant 'hole' and looked up to the sky.  Floating on our backs, we relaxed in the water, listening to the creaks and moans of the cave, as water surged in from an ocean we could only imagine.  Really relaxing, very freaky, and incredibly cool.

A quick drive to the west coast brought us by many traditional villages, some small beach fale resorts, and some of the prettiest white sand beaches we have seen.  We did make it back to Coconuts before dark (JUST before dark), and were a bit disappointed as we barely missed the wedding ceremony for two of our new friends at the resort.  Oh well, we were able to see some photos and hear strories over dinner.

Tomorrow, we are off to the other main island - Savaii, which is much less developed (not that Upolu is particularly developed in the first place!), and promises to be an adventure.

Bula!!

We are in Fiji, and having the time of our lives.  For me, this is probably my 16th or 17th visit to Fiji.  This is the Travel Gal's 4th visit, and the Travel Boy's 2nd time in Fiji (3rd if you count the time when the Travel Gal was there while 5 months pregnant!).  Each and every time we visit Fiji, we love it more than the last, and the time we spend here reminds us why it holds such a special place in our hearts.

Our flight to Nadi was great.  We flew on Air Pacific, and shared a row upstairs in the 'bubble' of their 747.  The Travel Boy slept for probably 8+ hours!

The Travel Gal and I joked how different the Nadi airport looks compared to our first visit, over ten years ago.  Back then, we arrived into a very hot, very stuffy airport, and thought that if they had big barrels near the lines at Immigration that stated "Air Conditioning Fund", they could generate enough money from a couple of arriving flights to air-condition the entire airport.  Looks like they didn't need our help, as the airport is nice, clean, and modern.

We were met at the airport by the Crusoe's Retreat driver.  The drive to Crusoe's is quite nice, passing beautiful bays and beaches, traditional villages, with friendly local Fijians waving and yelling Bula.  I only wish we could have stayed awake for the entire drive, but we were already in relaxed mode, and slept most of the way there. It certainly made our drive there seem very fast.

Our arrival at Crusoe's was great.  Smiling faces, and friends I hadn't seen since my last visit in January.  We all received shell leis (Travel Boy wore his the entire week!).  We were ushered over to the restaurant, so we could relax and enjoy breakfast. 

Travel Gal & Boy had never been to Crusoe's before, and I was anxious to show them around.  But, that had to wait until after breakfast.  Good, hot coffee was a priority for me, and it was available in large quantities (yes!).  Crusoe's has a full tropical buffet breakfast available to guests, which includes fresh local fruit, breads, fresh baked muffins, cereals, and more.  Travel Boy loved the hot muffins every morning, and we even got him to try a tiny bit of Marmite (New Zealand's version of vegemite).  Pretty vile stuff.  After some fruit and muffins, the waitress took our order for a full cooked breakfast.  Travel Boy couldn't believe that you could order spaghetti or baked beans on toast for breakfast!  He settled for the pancakes and bacon, and ended up eating that every morning.  If breakfast was any indication, there would be no way we would ever be hungry while we were here!

While eating breakfast, Travel Boy heard two boys, similar in age, from New Zealand walk in.  We all introduced ourselves, and it was the beginning of a beautiful friendship.  The three boys became instant friends, and spent the next several days hanging out with each other.  Just after meeting them, Travel Boy leaned in to me and said, "Daddy, they have cool accents!"  From then on, he tried to copy the way that they spoke.

After breakfast, we walked around the resort, and I showed them all that was available.  We started at Crusoe's very famous Foot Pool.  Yup. Its a pool in the shape of a foot.  Good fun.  Travel Boy loved it, immediately ran to get his swimsuit, and before we knew it, the three boys were playing in the pool's 'big toe'.  That left Travel Gal and I to walk around the resort.  Thankfully, our bure was ready for us when we arrived, so we had some time to unpack our things, and relax.  This was our SeaSide Bure:



The Bure is great. It has a large outdoor, covered sitting area with furniture, an indoor sitting area, two Queen size beds, a nice full bathroom with double vanity, and even a double shower.  The dramatic high ceilings helped keep it cool, and we never felt too hot.  The weather has been brilliant - we lucked out with loads of sun and nice warm days.

Tuci, the activities director at Crusoe's, soon had all three boys active and playing.  They had an egg tossing match out on the grass tennis court.  This was soon followed by a coconut bowling game (sort of like lawn bowling, but with coconuts!).  Soon after, the boys were learning how to husk and open coconuts.  We knew right away that Travel Boy would never be bored here at Crusoe's.



For the next several days, we experience highlight after highlight.  It is almost too much too recall.

The one thing we can all agree on is that the Fijian staff at Crusoe's are magical.  Lovely, friendly, happy people. 

I have traveled the world over and have seen many different world views of what is considered to be happy, and what is considered to be successful.  How we measure success in America is dramatically different from how it is viewed elsewhere, and when you get a glimpse of that, it really is an eye-opener.  The honest dedication to family and the truly heart-warming happiness that exudes from Fijians is simply unmatched.  To most 'westerners', Fiji is a poor country.  However, to consider these people poor is missing the point.  The Fijians have a richness of spirit and appreciation for life that most of us will simply never understand or begin to appreciate.  To us, this is the essence of a visit to Fiji.

Among the amazing highlights of our all-too-brief stay at Crusoe's Retreat included:
- Lounging at lunch and enjoying excellent, quality family time talking at our table, overlooking the resort.  This was definitely a family highlight for the three of us.
- Playing in the 'foot'.  Nice refreshing pool, and big enough to have a water volleyball match.
- Visiting the neighboring village and spending time with the Fijians.  Travel Boy was able to see the local Kindergarten school, and some of the homes in the village.  They do not have much, they live very simple lives, yet enjoy a sense of happiness that eludes most of us. The children are adorable.



- Going out for a snorkel trip and seeing for ourselves the vibrant marine life that Fiji has to offer.
- Traditional hand-line fishing from the boat, using fishing line, hooks, and bait.  No fishing rods required here!
- Kayaking out into the nearby bay.
- Strolling the beach looking for shells.
- Rather heated matches of table tennis, including a full tournament one night after dinner.  I hate to brag, but guess who won?
- Getting a Fijian cooking lesson, where they made coconut toffee.  Amazing.
- Watching a local man use palm fronds to weave the most amazing, most artistic items, including a hat, a bowl, a box, a snake, and even a grasshopper!  He had 10-12 guests enthralled for almost two hours.


Every night, after the sun set, we would listen carefully for the banging of the Lali drum, and the words we were waiting to hear:  "Happy Hour".  This was one of Travel Boys favorite times.  On more than one evening, I stepped out of the shower, to find that Travel Boy had already left our Bure.  We would find him sitting at the thatched roof Pool Bar, drinking a Sprite with his friends, and talking with the bartender.  He just loved it!  Happy Hour was popular with everyone, and it was actually quite difficult to get everyone to leave for the restaurant for dinner.  I suspect that Travel Boy will want us to start instituting a daily Happy Hour once we return home.

Speaking of dinners, the food was really good.  We were lucky to be there for the Lovo night (traditional Fijian underground oven), and the BBQ night.  These buffets were great.   The other nights, we were able to order very nice meals from the a la carte menu.  During our meals, the Crusoe's string band serenaded us with lovely Fijian music.  After dinner, we enjoyed some fun entertainment, as we had a kava ceremony one night, enjoyed some dancing on another night, and our epic table tennis tournament.

Our last morning at the resort was a bit sad.  Travel Boy declared Crusoe's to be his favorite place in the world (due in no small part to having new friends from NZ).  After breakfast, we tried to fill our morning with as much as possible.  Our transfer back to Nadi was scheduled just after lunch.  We savoured our final lunch at Crusoe's, and talked of when we could schedule our return visit to this great place.

While it was sad to say goodbye to all of our new (and old) friends, it gave us some solace to realize that our time at Crusoe's was magical, and that we would be returning to this very special place soon.  Moce and Vinaka to our Fijian friends at Crusoe's Retreat.

The countdown is on!  Two days to go!

I am off to the islands of the South Pacific again, but this time, I am going with the Travel Gal and the Travel Boy.  We are spending three nights at Crusoe's Retreat on Fiji's Coral Coast, before we head up to Denarau Island (off of Nadi) for several days of meetings at the annual BFTE event.  We will stay at the Westin at Denarau, and while I am stuck in three full-on days of meetings, the Travel Gal and Boy will go out and explore Nadi, some local sights, and maybe even a day trip to one of the nearby islands.

After my meetings, the three of us are heading to Samoa!  I adore Samoa, and the Travel Gal & Boy have never been, so I am psyched to show them why I love it.  We are staying at Coconuts Beach Club - of course!  We have no plans yet in Samoa, but expect to do as much as possible - visit waterfalls, hang out in the local market, explore some deserted beaches, snorkel and kayak, and maybe even try surfing for the first time!

Can't wait.  More news to come soon . . .

Ahhhh.  I just returned from a week in Fiji (don't be too jealous, it was a very busy business trip).  I was lucky enough to stay for four nights at Crusoe's Retreat.  The only thing that would have made it better was if the "Travel Gal" and the "Travel Boy" were with me.  I hate traveling alone, but it could be worse - heck, I was in Fiji!

As usual, the flight from LAX to Nadi was very uneventful.  Air Pacific treated me very well - I even had a row of three seats to myself, upstairs in the 'bubble' of the 747.  Great service, great staff.  Always a pleasure flying with Air Pacific.

The walk into the warm, tropical, humid air at the aircraft door is Fiji's way of saying Bula!  Some people think that my regular travels to Fiji make me a bit more cynical, but I have to tell you that Fiji remains one of my favorite places in the world.  The islands are gorgeous; the sights, amazing; the beaches are empty and beg for your discovery; the Fijians are quite simply the friendliest, most lovely people I have ever had the privilege to meet.

The drive to Crusoe's Retreat is always special, as it gives me time to relax after the flight, and allows me an opportunity to see the sights on the main island of Viti Levu.  Fiji is home to 330 islands, and Viti Levu is by far the largest.  With two main cities (Nadi, home to the International Airport and Suva, the country's capital), Fiji remains a largely rural, village-based society.  Driving to Crusoe's, I feel that I am passing through hundreds of small villages.

I remember the first time I visited Fiji with the Travel Gal (this was pre- Travel Boy).  We arrived at some ridiculous hour in the morning, and drove to the outskirts of Suva to meet up with our Liveaboard Dive Boat.  From the confines of our van, we witnessed Fiji slowly awake for the day.  Smoke from cooking fires floated above the villages.  Barefoot kids in school uniforms laughed and ran their way to class.  Village horses and cows grazed while tied along the side of the road.  And then there were the ominous looking men, carrying sacks of vegetables and fruits, gathered from the nearby village farm land.  In one hand was their ever-present machete.  As the van zoomed by this daily life of Fiji, these scary, menacing-looking men would break out into a huge, toothy smile, wave at us, and yell "Bula!".  Now that's a Welcome to Fiji moment!

So, the ride to Crusoe's brought back wonderful memories of our first visit.  Here I am, nine years later, more than a dozen Fiji stamps in my passport, and it is still amazing and new.

Crusoe's Retreat looks great!  I stayed in a newly refurbished Deluxe SeaSide Bure.  New furnishings, air-conditioning (which went unused), a brand new bathroom, and a fantastic open-air, river-rock outdoor shower.  I used the outdoor shower every day, even during a short rain storm.  Nothing like taking a shower in the open-air, with towering coconut palms and mandarin trees overhead. It is a very cool experience.

The food at Crusoe's was a great treat.  Full cooked breakfast - anything you could want.  This was supplemented by a tropical buffet, with fresh fruits, breads, and unending cups of coffee.  Lunch ranged from sandwiches, hamburgers, pasta, and more.  Afternoon tea included many different tea options and fresh baked cakes or breads.  Dinners were awesome.  If you are lucky enough to be there on specialty nights, the buffets are varied and fresh.  For those a la carte nights, the menu options are wonderful, from rack of NZ lamb, to fresh local fish.  Needless to say, I was never left hungry.

Early mornings at Crusoe's were very special to me - a private time for myself.  Because of the time difference, I was usually awake early.  With camera in hand, I explored the tropical gardens with their amazing variety of flowers.  I walked the sandy beach, drifting into and out of the very gently lapping waves.  Next door to Crusoe's is a traditional Fijian village.  Walking along the fronting beach, I was able to catch a glimpse into the village as it sprang to life for the day.  The long, relaxing walk along the beach was the perfect start to the day.  On my way back to the resort, with coffee on my mind, the village was nearly bustling, and local kids, some naked as the day they were born, were playing in the ocean.  A happy "Yadra" (good morning) and a smiling wave brought giggles and laughs from the kids.

Despite many hours stuck in the confines of the office at Crusoe's, I was lucky to get out and explore a bit.  Some of my favorite times at the resort involve sitting with fellow guests, learning about them, and finding out why they were in Fiji and at Crusoe's.  The beauty of Crusoe's is the variety of people that you meet.  An older couple from Nevada.  A young couple from Melbourne.  Avid scuba divers visiting from Canberra.  A Seattle couple stopping in Fiji on an around-the-world ticket.  A larger resort would be bustling and busy.  Crusoe's is a small resort, and you have the luxury to really meet people, sit down and talk with them, and share stories.  Everyone has a story, and if you take the time to sit with them, you can learn a lot about people and our place in the world. 

Crusoe's Retreat has a new thatched roof pool bar, where they host a nightly happy hour (actually, several hours, and they are always happy!).  Guests hang out and talk, and soon the bar is full, drinks are flowing, and many different conversations are happening.  When the Lali drum is played, announcing that dinner is served, no one wants to leave.

Traveling alone can be a very lonesome thing.  Invariably, someone is nice enough to invite me to sit with them at lunch or dinner.  While I would never want to interrupt a couple's nice quiet dinner together, I also never pass up an opportunity to sit and eat with friendly people.  I remember them all, and appreciate their kindness and friendship.

       
On my fourth day at the resort, I decided to escape for an hour or so.  I took advantage of Don's offer to go diving.  Just one dive, I said.  It was a good one!  I dove with the couple from Canberra, who were very friendly, and excited to get into the water.  Due to some recent storms, the visibility wasn't the greatest, but even the not-so-perfect vis beats many other dive destinations.  We saw a huge assortment of marine life, with several large schools of tropical fish.  I have never been disappointed on my many dives in Fiji, and I most certainly was not disappointed on this day.  It was a great dive, and all of us relived what we saw as we relaxed in the pool back at the resort.

I had quite a few meetings in Nadi, so I drove back the day before my flight.  It is always sad leaving Crusoe's, as you never want to leave, but at least I knew that I would be returning soon.  In Nadi, I stayed at the Mercure hotel.  It was great - a swimming pool, full bar and restaurant, and within walking distance of quite a few shops and restaurants.  That night, I met my friend Lynette for dinner. She boasted about a new Indian restaurant that she recently tried, and she knew that I loved Indian food and anything spicy.  We arrived pretty early (6:00p), and were the only guests at the restaurant.  Having skipped lunch, I was starving, and began to order a ton of items from the menu.  I asked the server if they could make my goat curry extra spicy.  That's a mistake. I trust that the curry was already very spicy, so when it was delivered and I tried it, it was smokin' hot.  I loved it!  Great meal, great company, and I can't wait to return.

One thing I forgot to mention was the really bad flooding that Fiji had experienced a few weeks before my trip.  Roads had been washed out; bridges washed away; homes completely covered by water; crops destroyed by incoming salt water.  It was very sad to see the damage from the storms, but it was nice to see the Fijians helping each other out, rebuilding what was lost. 

My lasting memories from Fiji are always the people.  Sure, the resort was very nice, the food was great, the diving was fun.  But, it is the people I remember, and every time I return, I secretly hope that the Fijian's friendly and giving nature has somehow rubbed off on me, making me a better person because of the time I spent with them.  But I am always reassured knowing that my next visit to Fiji will be soon, and like always, Fiji will again feel new to me.

This is the kind of place one goes to have an epiphany. . .

Samoa.  Just the word conjures images of tropical beauty.  However, a Samoan experience is so much more.

I just recently returned from a fascinating and wonderful journey to Samoa.  My Samoan experience was truly a full one-- full of amazing sights; full of tropical sounds; full of delightful tastes; full of Samoan hospitality.  This true, honest experience can not be encapsulated in a word, nor can it be captured by woefully inept two dimensional photographs.  No, my Samoan experience is a living one, forcing me to realize that the Fa'a Samoa (the Samoan Way) is not just something to observe as an outsider, but maybe to consider emulating.

The hot and humid air provided my first Samoan greeting at the Faleolo Airport.  Coming from the dry, arid climate of Denver, I was initially taken aback by the dramatic difference in climate.  However, my body quickly adjusted, and the weather helped place me in that tropical mood.  My second greeting in Samoa was from Monty, the friendly driver from Coconuts Beach Club.  A smile; a handshake; a nod towards the van. 

The 25-mile drive from the airport to Coconuts Beach Club went by too quick.  I wanted to stop at every open-air fale, to speak with the locals, to purchase fresh produce from a roadside stand, to watch the cricket match being played in the village.  Also, my time with Monty proved educational, as he taught me some useful Samoan words, and showed me his recently completed traditional Samoan tattoo, that stretched from his mid-section to his thighs.  Sure, he told me it was painful, but I am quite confident that he did not show any signs of pain during what must have been the interminable several weeks it required.  Monty showed me where on his arm he would like a tattoo band, and informed me that both he and I would get a tattoo together, during my stay.  My response - a nervous laugh, and a hearty, "Not gonna happen!".

Monty has traveled around the world, performing traditional Samoan dance and singing Samoan songs.  Even as a world-traveler, he continues to live a simple life in a neighboring village, choosing to stay close to home, close to family, close to friends, and to teach Samoan language and custom to the local children.  Monty told me that I was a Palagi (an outsider, or a Westerner).  This was not a bad term, just a way to describe us.  With 99%+ of the population of the country being native Samoans, there is a true pride of culture and for me, a true Polynesian experience.  Come to find out, Monty is a Matai, or a chief in his village.  He would certainly not brag about being a Matai, and considered it one of his responsibilities, the same as being a teacher for the children, leading his local dance group, or driving the transfer van for the resort.

The Samoans that I met on my travels seem shy, maybe even aloof.  However, once smiling, they are genuine, and nothing seems forced.  While driving the narrow paved roads on the island of Upolu, I made a point to smile and wave (and yell the occasional Talofa) at everyone I saw, and this small gesture was heartily met with smiling, waving friends, who I have no doubt would have invited me into their village as if I were family.  What I now tell everyone is that when in Samoa, please invest in a smile and a wave - it will be returned ten-fold.

Coconuts Beach Club is one of those rare, special places that, when you arrive, you feel like you are at home.  Not only is Coconuts situated near a village, it feels like you are staying within a village.  A few days at Coconuts and you truly get a taste of Samoa. 

I was met at the open-air reception by several smiling team members, and within seconds had a cold Pina Colada in my hands, served in a green coconut.  A stone walkway led to my second-story Treehouse Room, which was on the edge of the lush jungle.  The room was delightful: polished local hardwood floors, a king-size four poster bamboo bed, a rock-floor bathroom with a sunken shower/bathtub with ocean views out the window, bamboo chairs and a table, and a long deck with lounge chairs, a table, and a hammock which at the time was not only inviting me, but screaming my name.  The air-conditioner promised cool, dry relief, but the windows promised more - the sounds of the tropics and the sea.  My room also contained original artwork from a local artisan, who happened to also be an employee of the Resort.  The three paintings told a tale of ancient Samoa, and thankfully, a one-page description of the story was nearby.  The view from my deck was breathtaking, as the blues and greens of the lagoon stretched out before me, beckoning my discovery.
                                 

Coconuts Beach Club is located on the beautiful south coast of Upolu.  Early morning is a special time, making you feel like you are alone in paradise.  Noises from the jungle gently awake you.  The sound of lapping waves on the beach is barely perceptible over the dramatic sound of the crashing waves on the outer reef.  The rising sun gently illuminates the entire resort, made even more dramatic by slight haze from the wood-burning smoke from the nearby village.  This beautiful introduction to the day is surpassed only by the beauty of sunset, enjoyed with friends at Coconut's famous three-stool bar, with cocktail in hand. 

The other accommodations at Coconuts include three large Garden Suites (some of the largest rooms at the resort), which while located on the edge of the jungle, also face the ocean and have quite beautiful views.  In my opinion, these are the greatest value accommodation at Coconuts (and perhaps all of Samoa!).  A sand path takes you to the six Beach Fales (one of which is a two-bedroom fale).  These fales are directly in front of the beach and have fantastic views.  The split level design differentiates the large comfortable sitting area and the elevated bedroom, both with soaring ceilings.  The lava-rock, open-air courtyard shower is quite large, and the waterfall shower coming out of the wall is fun and unique.  The two overwater fales boast the best views from their oversize decks looking west towards the sunset.  The large picture windows maximize these wonderful views, and the glass coffee table allows you to look down at the fish swimming below you.

The newest additions to Coconuts are the wonderful Royal Beach Villas.  These dramatic villas are the nicest accommodation at the Resort, and set a new standard for all of Samoa.  The Villa Matai is a soaring, two-story villa with an airy, open feel.  The large bedroom melds into the spacious sitting room, both with very comfortable furnishings.  There is a lava-rock, open-air bathroom with the famous waterfall shower.  The second story, accessed via a circular staircase, showcases one of the finest views found anywhere.  The second story also features a large outdoor balcony with furniture.  Flanking the Villa Matai are the Villa Pule and Villa Ali'i.  Both of these one-story villas also feature the same airy, open feel as the main villa, and also have large lava-rock bathrooms with waterfall showers.  At night, these villas are dramatically lit and take on a completely different personality than during the day.

One of the highlights of a stay at Coconuts (just ask anyone who has been) is the amazing dining.  The restaurant is open-air around the bar, and also has an enclosed, dramatic dining area.  The full drink menu has some fun local creations, and the extensive dining menus proved to be my downfall - choosing my meal was certainly the most difficult decision of my day!  Among some of my favorite meals were the blackened cajon Ahi with a fantastic remoulade sauce, the grilled fish almondine, the to-die-for French onion soup, and the curried chicken served in a ripe papaya.  Coconuts also boasts a wonderful wine list, but I enjoyed Vailima, Samoa's own locally produced beer.  Just one look at the menu options (and drink options) proves that the amazing Coconut's Meal Deal is one of the best bargains in the entire South Pacific.

I purposely scheduled my visit to include a Saturday night stay, so that I might enjoy their amazing Fia Fia Night.  The dramatic beginning of the Fia Fia Night included the local villagers marching in, carrying lit torches, chanting local Samoan songs.  Bare chested men danced, sang and performed an amazing slap dance.  The traditionally dressed women (including one girl wearing a woven mat outfit) danced and sang beautifully.  The highlight was the Fire Knife show, where children and young adults (one girl looked no older than 5 years old!) danced and swung a rod with a sharp knife on each end - both of which were lit on fire!  This was one of the most impressive cultural dances I have ever witnessed, and the skill level (and courage of the dancers) was simply amazing.  It just can't be missed.

Coconuts is extremely inviting, and encourages you to sit back and relax, either in your room or fale, on the white sand beach, or by the gecko-shaped swimming pool.  There are plenty of activities including snorkeling on the house reef, sea kayaking, mountain biking, hiking, or simply strolling the white sand beach collecting seashells.  One of my favorite activities was kayaking along Coconuts' shore and entering one of the prettiest mangrove estuaries I have ever seen.  The kayaking was very easy (it is glass-calm water in the mangrove) on the sit-on-top kayaks, and the cooler waters of the estuary were refreshing.  I explored every nook and cranny of the mangrove, paddling underneath massive trees while listening to the diverse bird life in this peaceful refuge.  This was truly an escape, with soaring trees and lush foliage around every corner, and leaves, fruit and coconuts floating in the serene water.  At one end of the mangrove, I came upon a family with small children swimming in the cool water.  When they saw me, the children yelled "Palagi, Palagi" and swam to their parents.  They were intrigued by my kayak, and even grabbed hold as I took them for a short ride. 

A Sunday morning visit to the local village church was a remarkable experience.  Samoa is a very religious society, easily discovered when you notice that the nicest building in every village is the local church.  The service was completely in Samoan, and highlighted by beautiful voices joined in song.  Everyone was dressed in their proud white Sunday clothes, and the first row was reserved for guests - Palagi visitors from the resort.  I was lucky enough to be there in on the first Sunday of December, when the minister performs baptisms.  The local children also got up on stage and sang Christmas songs, including a wonderful version of Jingle Bells with completely different English words! 

The island of Upulo is simply one of the prettiest islands I have ever seen.  The beauty of Coconuts is that you can rent a car directly at the Resort and start exploring the island immediately.  A short drive up the Cross Island Road (really, that is what it is named) takes you to Papapapai-tai Waterfall, an enormous, dramatic waterfall viewed from an overlook several meters from the road.  Further up the road is the Robert Louis Stevenson museum - a beautiful, colonial mansion built by the famous Scottish author.  Stevenson was much-loved by the local Samoans, and the museum with its knowledgeable tour guides is very deserving of a visit.  The town of Apia is bustling, with several open-air markets selling produce, fish, handicrafts, and cooked food.  I was one of the very few Palagis there, and I very much enjoyed the amazing sights, smell and sounds of the market.  Definitely a highlight!  The driving was pretty slow going, as there were many villages, most with traditional open-air fales, as well as the many wooden buses driving around the island.

Upolu boasts many deserted white-sand beaches awaiting your discovery.  Most are within easy driving distance.  However, for me the island's waterfalls were the highlight.  I am not sure if I have ever seen a more lush, beautiful island, especially the rainforest-clad mountain peaks and sharp-edged ridges of eastern Upolu.  The dramatic waterfalls seem to explode out of the jungle, dropping hundreds of feet into mist-filled pools. 
    
Another highlight is the Piula Cave Pool along Upolu's north coast, which features refreshingly cold water (fed by fresh water springs).  When I arrived at the Cave Pool, there was a huge Samoan guy, full of tattoos, in the shallow water, relaxing in the sun.  I jumped right in and swam to the back of the cave.  It was dark, and just a little bit scary!  I am told that at the end of the cave, you can swim under the cave wall to enter another, internal cave.  To be honest, the swim to the back of the cave freaked me out - I was afraid something was going to grab my feet.  Well, upon exiting the cave, I swam out and relaxed by the beach.  My large tatooed friend looked at me, all serious-like, and said, "I can't believe you swam back there - that scares me to death."  HA!  So, I guess that was my one brave Samoan moment. 

When I first heard that Coconuts hosted movie night three times per week, I was a bit taken aback, wondering why anyone would want to sit and watch a movie while staying in paradise.  Well, those thoughts were short-lived.  The dramatic lounge at Coconuts features big and comfy couches and chairs, along with shelves containing many books and games.  A screen is pulled down and a projection television is used to show movies from the resort's collection of over 1,000 movies.  What a great venue!  After dinner, guests took their drinks (and their desserts!) into the lounge to enjoy the movie.  Every single guest was in attendance at the movie, and many even enjoyed a bowl of popcorn.

This really is the essence of Coconuts.  A laid back, relaxing escape.  There are many beautiful places to visit in the South Pacific.  Coconuts Beach Club is unique in that it embraces the local Samoan culture and village life.  Coconuts truly is Samoa.  From the smiling faces of the staff, the beautiful accommodations boasting local design and workmanship, the exceptional dining taking full advantage of the island's riches, the fun activities, and the simple beauty of the resort's location, Coconuts truly delivers not only a relaxing getaway, but a Samoan experience.

While I never did have my epiphany (perhaps I was trying too hard), I did experience a powerful reminder of why I love Samoa, and consider this beautiful place one of my favorite spots in the entire South Pacific.  I can't wait to share it with everyone. . .