Ahhhh.  I just returned from a week in Fiji (don't be too jealous, it was a very busy business trip).  I was lucky enough to stay for four nights at Crusoe's Retreat.  The only thing that would have made it better was if the "Travel Gal" and the "Travel Boy" were with me.  I hate traveling alone, but it could be worse - heck, I was in Fiji!

As usual, the flight from LAX to Nadi was very uneventful.  Air Pacific treated me very well - I even had a row of three seats to myself, upstairs in the 'bubble' of the 747.  Great service, great staff.  Always a pleasure flying with Air Pacific.

The walk into the warm, tropical, humid air at the aircraft door is Fiji's way of saying Bula!  Some people think that my regular travels to Fiji make me a bit more cynical, but I have to tell you that Fiji remains one of my favorite places in the world.  The islands are gorgeous; the sights, amazing; the beaches are empty and beg for your discovery; the Fijians are quite simply the friendliest, most lovely people I have ever had the privilege to meet.

The drive to Crusoe's Retreat is always special, as it gives me time to relax after the flight, and allows me an opportunity to see the sights on the main island of Viti Levu.  Fiji is home to 330 islands, and Viti Levu is by far the largest.  With two main cities (Nadi, home to the International Airport and Suva, the country's capital), Fiji remains a largely rural, village-based society.  Driving to Crusoe's, I feel that I am passing through hundreds of small villages.

I remember the first time I visited Fiji with the Travel Gal (this was pre- Travel Boy).  We arrived at some ridiculous hour in the morning, and drove to the outskirts of Suva to meet up with our Liveaboard Dive Boat.  From the confines of our van, we witnessed Fiji slowly awake for the day.  Smoke from cooking fires floated above the villages.  Barefoot kids in school uniforms laughed and ran their way to class.  Village horses and cows grazed while tied along the side of the road.  And then there were the ominous looking men, carrying sacks of vegetables and fruits, gathered from the nearby village farm land.  In one hand was their ever-present machete.  As the van zoomed by this daily life of Fiji, these scary, menacing-looking men would break out into a huge, toothy smile, wave at us, and yell "Bula!".  Now that's a Welcome to Fiji moment!

So, the ride to Crusoe's brought back wonderful memories of our first visit.  Here I am, nine years later, more than a dozen Fiji stamps in my passport, and it is still amazing and new.

Crusoe's Retreat looks great!  I stayed in a newly refurbished Deluxe SeaSide Bure.  New furnishings, air-conditioning (which went unused), a brand new bathroom, and a fantastic open-air, river-rock outdoor shower.  I used the outdoor shower every day, even during a short rain storm.  Nothing like taking a shower in the open-air, with towering coconut palms and mandarin trees overhead. It is a very cool experience.

The food at Crusoe's was a great treat.  Full cooked breakfast - anything you could want.  This was supplemented by a tropical buffet, with fresh fruits, breads, and unending cups of coffee.  Lunch ranged from sandwiches, hamburgers, pasta, and more.  Afternoon tea included many different tea options and fresh baked cakes or breads.  Dinners were awesome.  If you are lucky enough to be there on specialty nights, the buffets are varied and fresh.  For those a la carte nights, the menu options are wonderful, from rack of NZ lamb, to fresh local fish.  Needless to say, I was never left hungry.

Early mornings at Crusoe's were very special to me - a private time for myself.  Because of the time difference, I was usually awake early.  With camera in hand, I explored the tropical gardens with their amazing variety of flowers.  I walked the sandy beach, drifting into and out of the very gently lapping waves.  Next door to Crusoe's is a traditional Fijian village.  Walking along the fronting beach, I was able to catch a glimpse into the village as it sprang to life for the day.  The long, relaxing walk along the beach was the perfect start to the day.  On my way back to the resort, with coffee on my mind, the village was nearly bustling, and local kids, some naked as the day they were born, were playing in the ocean.  A happy "Yadra" (good morning) and a smiling wave brought giggles and laughs from the kids.

Despite many hours stuck in the confines of the office at Crusoe's, I was lucky to get out and explore a bit.  Some of my favorite times at the resort involve sitting with fellow guests, learning about them, and finding out why they were in Fiji and at Crusoe's.  The beauty of Crusoe's is the variety of people that you meet.  An older couple from Nevada.  A young couple from Melbourne.  Avid scuba divers visiting from Canberra.  A Seattle couple stopping in Fiji on an around-the-world ticket.  A larger resort would be bustling and busy.  Crusoe's is a small resort, and you have the luxury to really meet people, sit down and talk with them, and share stories.  Everyone has a story, and if you take the time to sit with them, you can learn a lot about people and our place in the world. 

Crusoe's Retreat has a new thatched roof pool bar, where they host a nightly happy hour (actually, several hours, and they are always happy!).  Guests hang out and talk, and soon the bar is full, drinks are flowing, and many different conversations are happening.  When the Lali drum is played, announcing that dinner is served, no one wants to leave.

Traveling alone can be a very lonesome thing.  Invariably, someone is nice enough to invite me to sit with them at lunch or dinner.  While I would never want to interrupt a couple's nice quiet dinner together, I also never pass up an opportunity to sit and eat with friendly people.  I remember them all, and appreciate their kindness and friendship.

       
On my fourth day at the resort, I decided to escape for an hour or so.  I took advantage of Don's offer to go diving.  Just one dive, I said.  It was a good one!  I dove with the couple from Canberra, who were very friendly, and excited to get into the water.  Due to some recent storms, the visibility wasn't the greatest, but even the not-so-perfect vis beats many other dive destinations.  We saw a huge assortment of marine life, with several large schools of tropical fish.  I have never been disappointed on my many dives in Fiji, and I most certainly was not disappointed on this day.  It was a great dive, and all of us relived what we saw as we relaxed in the pool back at the resort.

I had quite a few meetings in Nadi, so I drove back the day before my flight.  It is always sad leaving Crusoe's, as you never want to leave, but at least I knew that I would be returning soon.  In Nadi, I stayed at the Mercure hotel.  It was great - a swimming pool, full bar and restaurant, and within walking distance of quite a few shops and restaurants.  That night, I met my friend Lynette for dinner. She boasted about a new Indian restaurant that she recently tried, and she knew that I loved Indian food and anything spicy.  We arrived pretty early (6:00p), and were the only guests at the restaurant.  Having skipped lunch, I was starving, and began to order a ton of items from the menu.  I asked the server if they could make my goat curry extra spicy.  That's a mistake. I trust that the curry was already very spicy, so when it was delivered and I tried it, it was smokin' hot.  I loved it!  Great meal, great company, and I can't wait to return.

One thing I forgot to mention was the really bad flooding that Fiji had experienced a few weeks before my trip.  Roads had been washed out; bridges washed away; homes completely covered by water; crops destroyed by incoming salt water.  It was very sad to see the damage from the storms, but it was nice to see the Fijians helping each other out, rebuilding what was lost. 

My lasting memories from Fiji are always the people.  Sure, the resort was very nice, the food was great, the diving was fun.  But, it is the people I remember, and every time I return, I secretly hope that the Fijian's friendly and giving nature has somehow rubbed off on me, making me a better person because of the time I spent with them.  But I am always reassured knowing that my next visit to Fiji will be soon, and like always, Fiji will again feel new to me.